Backcountry Explorer

Zion National Park: Summit Routes

2010-07-16T19:33:00.001-07:00

My Zion National Park hiking, scrambling and climbing guidebook, Zion National Park: Summit Routes, is no longer available, as I begin work on a new Zion backcountry non-guidebook. The new book will be a collection of BxW photos, essays, stories, notes and gibberish related to my many and varied backcountry travels in this most outstanding of places.

Focused on summit routes in the park, the initial book was the first of its kind, a 250-page guide covering routes to nearly 80 summits in and near Zion National Park, including photos and maps.

Just a handful of the summits featured in the book were The West Temple, Mountain of the Sun, Twin Brothers, The Watchman, Mount Kinesava, Mount Spry, South Guardian Angel, North Guardian Angel, Johnson Mountain, Bridge Mountain, Mount Moroni, Lady Mountain, Angels Landing, Cathedral Mountain, North Sentinel, Deertrap Mountain, Langston Mountain, Mount Majestic, Tabernacle Dome, Canaan Mountain, Pine Valley Peak, Red Butte, Checkerboard Mesa, Smithsonian Butte, Horse Ranch Mountain...

"That list one keeps in one's head of places to see and explore in the Zion area will surely get longer after one gets his hands on this book. "Knowledge is power" someone said or wrote. This guide is definitely powerful. The descriptions are concise and down to earth. 'Sheep turds as well as cairns will help lead the way.'" - Jeff Branin, North Carolina

"...the book [...] is clear and informative, yet has a homey, cozy style to it. Not nearly as dry as much of the genre. I am really enjoying the read so far. A must for any serious outdoor library." - Steve Ramras, Colorado

Cover photo by Rick Kent
Cover design by Michael Cressman

Rambles & Scrambles: The Definitive Guide to Peakbagging Around Las Vegas

2010-07-16T19:32:00.001-07:00

My guidebook, Rambles & Scrambles: The Definitive Guide to Peakbagging Around Las Vegas, is no longer available, while I'm currently at work on the 2nd edition. Vastly improved and expanded, the new edition is expected to cover some 600+ peaks! Look for it...in a couple years.

Photo courtesy of Michael Cressman/Design by Michael Cressman

2010-07-16T19:31:00.001-07:00

Where: near Springfield, Oregon
Who: DB
When: July 2010

For the 4th peak of the day, DB and I hiked up Mount Pisgah, a dominating (yet still only 1,530 feet high) mountain near Springfield and Eugene. At the grassy top of the mountain, we encountered an interesting memorial to Jed Kesey, the son of Ken Kesey who had tragically died in a vehicle accident in the mid-80s. As I recall, Bill Graham ponied up the dough to create the memorial. Pretty cool stuff.

Dunderberg Peak

2010-07-16T19:14:00.001-07:00

Where: near Yosemite National Park
Who: solo
When: June 2010

Dunderberg Peak is a healthy-size peak on the border of Yosemite National Park above Virginia Lakes. DB and I had failed on an attempt of the peak the previous June when she'd experienced some show-stopping AMS symptoms. This time, I set out alone for the summit while she hung back and enjoyed the lakes, the people-watching and the general sense of freedom that comes with the start of a long vacation. The roundtrip hike cost a whopping 2 hours and 25 minutes of my time. And the views were well worth it!

Salt Creek Falls

2010-07-16T19:10:00.001-07:00

Where: Oregon Cascades
Who: DB
When: July 2010

While driving along OR-58 on the way to Eugene, DB and I pulled off at the signed overlook for Salt Creek Falls. Not expecting a whole lot, you can imagine our joy to behold an awesome 300-foot waterfall booming into a lush, fern-covered amphitheater. Great stuff, man!

Mount Sopris

2010-07-16T19:04:00.001-07:00

Where: Colorado Rockies
Who: solo
When: July 2010
Mount Sopris
I'd wanted to hike up Mount Sopris for years, and finally found the time. The dominating mountain required a roundtrip of 13 miles and 3,800 feet of gain. I enthusiastically set out alone one morning while DB caught more zzz's in the truck. The hike was mostly scenic, and the final jaunt to the summit was enjoyable. I returned to the truck 5 hours and 10 minutes after starting out. A nice day, to be sure.

Odell Butte

2010-07-16T18:59:00.001-07:00

Where: Oregon Cascades
Who: DB
When: July 2010
The Odell Butte lookout tower
The day after I hiked up Mount Thielsen, DB and I took the short hike up to the top of Odell Butte. A fire lookout was manning the charming summit structure, though he proved to be rather unfriendly, and so we kept our distance. Still, the views were nice and the summit was worthwhile.

Willow Peak

2010-07-16T18:49:00.001-07:00

Where: Colorado Rockies
Who: Aron Ralston
When: July 2010
North Maroon Peak from Willow Peak
Willow Peak is the local name for a 13,336-ft. peak above Willow Lake in the Maroon Lake region near Pyramid Peak and the Maroon Bells. It was another peak on Aron's not-yet-done list for the Aspen area. Although I was a bit taxed from the previous two days worth of effort, I signed on-board for what turned out to be a splendid day in the beautiful Willow Lake region. Most excellent.

Willow Lake and Pyramid Peak from Willow Peak

Mount Ogden and Allen Peak

2010-07-16T09:39:00.001-07:00

Where: Wasatch Mountains of Utah
Who: DB
When: July 2010
Mount Ogden, on the approach
I'd never climbed anything in Salt Lake's great Wasatch Range, so I was stoked to be passing through with some free time. DB and I selected Mount Ogden, a towering mountain that promised terrific scenery. It didn't disappoint. Despite the summit antennae, we found nearly two hours of summit viewing and relaxation amongst the highest rocks (and the heli pad). Oh, yeah, I also bagged nearby Allen Peak too.

Another (Good) 14er -- Pyramid Peak

2010-07-16T09:25:00.000-07:00

Where: Colorado Rockies
Who: solo
When: July 2010
South from the summit of Pyramid Peak
I set off alone early one morning to bag Pyramid Peak, one of Colorado's 59 14ers. It was said to be challenging, dangerous and generally great fun. I found it to be great fun but rather easy. The danger, in my estimation, is highly overrated (assuming your route-finding is on, and you're accustomed to loose rock, as I am). The views from the top were outstanding. The roundtrip took only 4 hours and 55 minutes.
The Maroon Bells from the summit of Pyramid Peak

Views from Aspen

2010-07-16T09:21:00.001-07:00

Where: Aspen, Colorado
Who: DB
When: July 2010
Enjoying the views from Aspen Mountain
On a rest day between frantic runs up Mount Sopris and Pyramid Peak, I took DB on a gondola ride to the top of Aspen Mountain. The views were great, the hail stung, and the interpretive hike we did with ACES was highly enjoyable. Green gentian!

City of Rocks

2010-07-16T09:07:00.001-07:00

Where: City of Rocks, Idaho
Who: DB
When: July 2010
On the summit of Graham Peak
While passing through Idaho on our way to Colorado from Oregon, it occurred to me that I'd never bagged a peak in Idaho. Utilizing my nifty smart phone, I soon learned that Cache Peak was along our route and promised to be a worthwhile objective. Unfortunately, blow-down across the access road thwarted our efforts and we ended up bagging nearby Graham Peak instead. From the summit, we looked down onto the stunning and muy-interesting City of Rocks far below us. It was time to check it out!
DB on the summit of Elephant Rock
We had not beta handy but we dug out the rope and harnesses and blasted our way up a handful of easy 5th class routes leading to three of the area's many, many awesome spires, buttes, towers and rocks. Dig!
On top of Treasure Rock

Spencer Butte in Eugene

2010-07-16T08:57:00.001-07:00

Where: Near Eugene, Oregon
Who: DB
When: July 2010
Enjoying the summit of Spencer Butte
While visiting charming and green Eugene, DB and I hiked up a handful of small local mountains. The most aesthetic of the group was Spencer Butte, a lush mountain with a nice trail system leading to a bald and rocky summit. The summit was busy, but it didn't prevent us from hanging with a dozen or two people (and their many dogs) for a solid hour, enjoying the greens and shadows of the region.
DB descending Spencer Butte

Cahto Peak and the Coastal Redwoods

2010-07-16T08:51:00.001-07:00

Where: Coastal Northern California
Who: DB
When: June 2010
DB in the redwoods near Laytonville, California
While in Laytonville, California for a folk music festival (Kate Wolf, most excellent!), we hiked up Cahto Peak and visited the coastal redwoods. What fantastic scenery!
DB on Cahto Peak

Sentinel Dome

2010-07-16T08:37:00.000-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park
Who: DB
When: June 2010
DB on the summit of Sentinel Dome
We've grown fond of jumping onboard ranger-led interpretive hikes whenever we go to the national parks. They're (usually) informative and nearly always great fun. This was no exception -- the ranger was friendly. She taught us all about the different types of local trees, flowers, the history of the area, etc. Good times!
Summit views
Descending Sentinel Dome

The Puppy on Puppy Dome

2010-07-16T08:33:00.001-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park
Who: DB
When: June 2010

DB and I rolled into snowy Tuolumne Meadows and immediately did the short scramble to the summit of Puppy Dome (across CA-120 from Lembert Dome) and basked in the glory of the Meadows from the charming summit. On the way down, I coaxed DB into climbing up into a funky tree at the base of the dome.

Glacier Point!

2010-07-16T08:26:00.001-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park
Who: DB
When: June 2010
DB at Glacier Point
DB had never been to Glacier Point, that most excellent Yosemite viewpoint, and it had been at least a decade for me. So we made the long drive up to the sprawling parking lot leading to the short trail that would take us to this breathtaking vantage point. It didn't disappoint (although the crowds did).

Cirque Peak, Last of the High Sierra

2010-07-16T08:15:00.001-07:00

Where: Sierra Nevada
Who: DB
When: June 2010
DB on the summit of Cirque Peak
For our very first outing of the 2010 summer roadtrip, DB and I decided to bag Cirque Peak, the last (southernmost) high peak of the Sierra, via a more direct route. It turned out to be a very pleasant outing.
DB near Cottonwood Meadows
DB descending Cirque Peak

Yosemite Valley's Higher Cathedral Rock

2010-07-16T07:58:00.001-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park
Who: DB
When: June 2010
DB and El Capitan from the summit of Higher Cathedral Rock
Although we'd planned to spend a week in Yosemite, the heavy snows of Tuolumne and the insane crowds of the Valley chased us off after only three days. On our last day in the park, we scrambled up Higher Cathedral Rock. The hike was interesting and the views outstanding.

DB found the grand daddy of all pine cones!

Tedious Taylor and Stellar Star Peaks

2010-07-16T07:38:00.000-07:00

Where: Colorado Rockies
Who: Aron Ralston
When: July 2010
Hiking up Taylor Peak
After a fun May outing with DB and Aron at Red Rock (complimented with Thai and Moroccan food), Aron invited us to spend a few days at his place in Aspen as we came to Colorado in July. Rather than obvious objectives, Aron suggested a handful of obscurities that he'd not yet done. One of them was called Star Peak.
Near the summit of Taylor Peak
Aron on the summit of Taylor Peak as Star Peak beckons
Star Peak is a monstrous, highly aesthetic mountain, strongly reminiscent of the Sierra, that was said to be dangerous loose class 4 via its north ridge. Aron suggested we attack it. And we did, by bouncing up and over Taylor Peak and then traversing endless talus to the northeast face, which was followed mellowly and in relative safety to the summit of outstanding Star. We descended into Ralstar Basin and then slogged out via the Lindley Hut. A fantastically fun day out.
A throne atop Star Peak!
Lovely tundra views from Star Peak
14er Castle from the summit of Star Peak

Mount Thielsen

2010-07-16T07:29:00.001-07:00

Where: Oregon Cascades
Who: solo
When: June 2010
Mount Bailey from the summit of Mount Thielsen
Mount Thielsen and its needle-like summit spire is one of the most iconic peaks in the Cascades. With 3,800 feet of gain and a "scary, vertical" 80-foot summit climb, it promised to be a fun day of choss bagging. As it turned out, the summit climb was an easy breeze, the views breathtaking, and I returned to the car 4 hours and 25 minutes after leaving.
Mount Thielsen

A Fun, Snowy Romp up Mount Bailey

2010-07-16T06:55:00.000-07:00

Where: Oregon Cascades
Who: DB
When: June 2010

Upon arrival in Oregon from the Kate Wolf Memorial Music Festival near Laytonville, California, DB and I immediately headed for Mount Bailey, an 8,300-foot volcano across the lake from the uber-impressive Mount Thielsen. The mosquitos were bad but the views were awesome. And the hike was enjoyable as well!
Thielsen from high on Bailey
Near the summit of Mount Bailey
Descending Mount Bailey
DB peeks through

Eagles Rest - Migration of the Snails

2010-07-16T06:48:00.000-07:00

Where: Oregon Cascades
Who: DB
When: July 2010

Before meeting first cousin, once-removed Marty and her partner Bruce at the July 4 Merry Pranksters festivus in nearby Dexter, DB and I hiked up a small mountain called Eagles Rest. With a beautiful several mile trail approach through lush forest, the canopy broke just enough on the summit to afford us pleasant views from a short, rocky outcropping. On the way down, we encountered several large snails crossing an obscure road high in the mountains. Some made it; unfortunately, others did not.

More Fun on Red Cap!

2010-05-25T09:47:00.001-07:00

Where: Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Nevada
Who: DB and Aron Ralston
When: May 2010

It's always a pleasure to take the short hike up Red Cap. On a couple occasions, I've set aside more time to do a loop of the other two nearby sandstone peaks (what I've called White Calico Peak #1 and #2). With Aron in town, DB and I played host. The result was a fantastic weekend of Moroccan food, belly dancers, an enjoyable, motivational talk at Caesar's Palace, Thai food, and yes, scrambling around Red Rock!
DB and Aron at Calico Tanks
CP and DB heading up Red Cap
The tinaja below Red Cap's summit
My 6th time on the summit
DB, CP and Aron on the summit
Another tinaja below White Calico Peak #1
Calico Tanks
After boogying our way to the top of White Calico Peak #2
All but the top two photos courtesy of Aron Ralston

Another Romp Thru Pandora's Box

2010-05-11T12:02:00.001-07:00

Where: Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Who: Aron Ralston and Bryan Long
Wandering the beautiful path toward the canyon
The Henry Mountains in the distance
Me and Bryan on the trail
A twisted old tree and the earth
Desert scenery
Petrified wood, everywhere!
Bryan, providing meat
A tree grows into the rock!
Downclimbing the Seuss Steps
Life is beautiful
A bitter cold pothole!
Bryan, grooving on life...
Bryan in the chamber
Looking back at the final rappel
Views on the hike out
Awesome
And righteous

All photos courtesy of Aron Ralston

North Potosi Peak

2010-05-02T11:46:00.000-07:00

Where: Spring Mountains, Nevada
When: May 2010
Who: DB
Paintbrush!
I'd meant to climb this peak over the winter as a snow climb but it got buried amidst the countless other objectives on my ever-growing to-do list. DB and I finally ticked it off in the spring. It was a fun peak, and the wildflowers were great!
Wildflowers below North Potosi Peak
A newborn pine!
The register. Five years since the last sign-in

Spring in Zion

2010-05-02T11:13:00.001-07:00

Where: Zion National Park, Utah
When: April 2010
Who: DB and a bunch of our friends
Can you spot the climbers?
DB and I spent 10 days in April out and about exploring the backcountry of Zion National Park. Here's a selection of our photos...
DB below Horse Ranch Mountain
Back in The Center of the Universe
Backcountry explorations
The wilds of Zion
Above Hop Valley
Northwest of Little Jenny Peak
On the summit of Tinaja Knoll
Descending obscurity
That's the Red Triangle

Beautiful Tinaja Knoll
From Explorers Knoll
A rarity -- A Zion tinaja
Looking over the Hamster's shoulder
The Bishopric
North to Sunbeam Peak

Return to Zion

2010-04-05T07:04:00.000-07:00

Where: Zion National Park, Utah
When: March/April 2010
Who: DB
In the backcountry
DB and I hit Zion really, really hard in the spring and fall, a few times in the summer, but usually only once or twice during the winter. So after the long, cold snows begin to melt, and we make our eventual return each spring, I'm reminded each and every time just how much I love the place.

Old Moon-Eye near Crater Hill

DB atop a small peak Jeff Branin brought to my consciousness, and I subsequently named Antler Point

The summit of obscurity ~ my favorite place in the whole world

Lake Powell

2010-04-05T06:59:00.001-07:00

Where: Lake Powell / Glen Canyon, Arizona
When: March 2010
Who: DB
Lone Rock, near Page
DB and I made our first tourist visit (I'd been once before for a day) to Lake Powell. We enjoyed the views, hiked a couple easy peaks and spent hours educating (and mis-educating) ourselves in the visitor center.
Near Wahweap
Our BLM camp below Glen Canyon Dam

Four Days in Grand Canyon

2010-04-05T06:38:00.000-07:00

Where: Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona
When: March 2010
Who: DB, HW Stockman, Sarah Thompson and Andy Mac
Harlan battling the squeeze chimney on O'Neill Butte
Spring Break 2009 was such a huge success in Grand Canyon that DB and I recruited a handful of friends to join us for another round. Unfortunately, heavy snow/ice conditions and a storm in the forecast shoved us away after only four days...then we went elsewhere.
Andy Mac near the summit of O'Neill Butte
But in the meantime...O'Neill Butte:
Struggling up the dihedral
DB and I climbed O'Neill Butte in 2008 or 2009 and found it a highly enjoyable, half-day scramble/climb that was well worth the minimal effort. Good fun!

Whites Butte: The beta said Whites was an 11 mile roundtrip via Hermit's Rest, but as it turned out, it was 16 miles, very hot, quite a slog, but totally fun too!
Andy along the Boucher Trail on the way to Whites Butte
Unnamed Butte (6,633): While Andy and Sarah headed off to Horseshoe Mesa, DB, Harlan and I explored our way to the unnamed butte north of Grandview. With interesting route-finding, it took several hours for us to reach the top.
Can you spot Harlan along the south ridge of Unnamed Butte (6,633)?
Cedar Mountain: The last of 6 peaks we did in 4 days in Grand Canyon. Apparently it's a 1 mile roundtrip in clear conditions ~ it was 10 miles for us.
On the windblown summit of Cedar Mountain
Unfortunately, that's all the pictures I have for now.

***Harlan posted several great shots (and maps too) on his site: www.hwstock.org

***And Sarah posted some fantastic photos (and entertaining narrative) on hers too: http://www.13ergirl.com/arizona.html

Fleur de Lis Peak

2010-02-08T13:29:00.000-08:00

Where: Elbow Range, Nevada
When: February 2010
Who: HW Stockman

I'd been up what some consider the highpoint of the Elbow Range a few years earlier, but never forgot the nice looking peak lurking right next door. I enlisted Harlan for a run up the thing. This is rugged country. Enjoy his photos!
Harlan getting funky on the summit

Atop a small peak on the hike out -- Fleur de Lis is left, Elbow Range HP is right
Summit pano
Another summit pano

Sloan Canyon!

2010-02-01T08:44:00.001-08:00

Where: Sloan Canyon National Conservation Area, Nevada
When: January 2010
Who: DB & HW Stockman
DB scrambling a dryfall in Sloan Canyon
I hadn't been to Sloan Canyon in several years; DB had never been; this was Harlan's second visit in a week. It was time to bag the aesthetic crags back by Sutor Benchmark. The road in hasn't improved any.
Belaying DB up the west ridge of Canine Crag

On the summit of Canine Crag
I found this on the side of a mountain a few miles away earlier that morning
Canine Crag, on the way to Feline Fang
Atop Feline Fang with Ecru Peak behind it
DB and I on Feline Fang

Descending Feline Fang on loose terrain
Crossing a quasi-knife-edge ridge on the way to Ecru Peak

Downclimbing a short band on the way to Ecru Peak
On the summit of Ecru Peak
On the way down from Ecru Peak, we spotted several fantastically aesthetic towers. I scrambled over to get a closer look. After surmounting a class 4 wall, I was able to stand at the base of the most awesome one. It was overhung on all sides, terribly loose, and absolutely impossible to climb. The next tower, which was right next door, was loose and tilted at a horrifying angle. There was a neat arch in the base of it. The backside, I learned as I scrambled away, was at a lesser angle (and therefore climbable) but still very loose and sketchy. I'll give these two a pass.
CP standing next to the inclimbable (for the sane) Ecru Towers
We looped back through Sloan Canyon on the way out, taking three seconds to enjoy some of the rock art there.
Rock art in Sloan Canyon

All photos courtesy of HW Stockman

Southern Utah Fun

2010-01-19T07:02:00.001-08:00

Where: Zion NP & Hurricane, Utah
When: January 2010
Who: DB
Aaah, Zion in winter!
Some folks know that I've enjoyed the backcountry of Zion National Park immensely. Although access is severely limited in winter, I've made considerable effort to visit the park at its loneliest -- when it's snow-covered and empty. Dig.
Into the backcountry we go
This peak can't be seen from any road. I first climbed it about 5 years ago.
A new peak for us. We dubbed it 'Lost Teton'.
A bit of orange slickrock...and my next objective of the day
Views into Dennett Canyon from the summit
Recognize this view?
That little peak there gives up some of the most interesting and obscure views I've yet come across in Zion
Scenery on the way out

.........

And then it was time for some fun in the sun around Hurricane...

On the summit of Mollies Nipple
Finishing up a killer 2-peak loop at Red Cliffs

Der Tooth & Nine Others Around Gold Valley

2010-01-11T07:10:00.001-08:00

Where: Mojave National Preserve, California
When: January 2010
Who: Matthew Holliman

Matthew had forwarded me a 1970 Andy Smatko trip report that spoke glowingly of Der Tooth and a plethora of other high-quality peaks around Gold Valley. Among these were North and South Tower, which we put first and second on our to-do list for the weekend. Here we go:

North Tower - A very ho hum peak, if you wanna call it that. Really just a subsidiary bump on a small peak next to Barber Benchmark. A touch of class 3 scrambling put us on top.
North Tower from South Tower
South Tower - Although the map shows otherwise, our observations (as well as the information in Smatko's trip report) determined that South Tower is a touch higher than North Tower. It's also a touch less interesting. A couple class 2-3 moves put you on the top, a mere 5-10 minutes from the summit of North Tower.

Columbia Mountain - This lame named peak stood between North/South Tower and Der Tooth, our next objective, so we decided to bag it. We were 30 minutes car-to-car via the southeast face.

Der Tooth - Based on Smatko's info, this was to be the highlight peak of the weekend. As it turned out, the single pitch of class 4-5 scrambling was fun but the peak was just too minor to really be considered a "peak." Der Tooth, frankly, is a crag; albeit a fine one at that!

Der Tooth from the trailhead
Matthew heading up Der Tooth
On the summit of Der Tooth
Der Tooth - the route essentially follows the right skyline

Woods Mountains Highpoint - With a quick four peaks already under our belt that morning, we headed over to the Woods Mountains to bag the unnamed highpoint. It was a quick affair. We noted the name of Bob Burd's friend, Evan Rasmussen, in the register. Evan is the only person to date to have bagged the highpoint of every mountain range in California!

Table Top - After the Woods Mountains highpoint, Matthew and I headed off to bag Table Top, the flat topped mesa that is so visible from the Mid Hills/Hole in the Wall region. Rather sloggy, it was over quickly and the views from the top were nice.

Twin Buttes - North (aka Tawoo Peak) - This peak looked really nice from Black Canyon Road, so we decided to bag it after Table Top. Little did we know, but this was to be the best peak of the weekend! Excellent class 3-4 scrambling put us on the top via the north face. On the summit, we found a Smatko register from May 1969, in which he claimed a first ascent. He dubbed the peak 'Tawoo Peak' and not a soul had signed in since! Ours was the first in 41 years!
Just below the summit, along the summit ridge
Matthew on the summit of Tawoo Peak
The Tawoo Peak summit register in Jan '10

Twin Buttes - South (aka Woota Peak) - After a spicy downclimb of the southeast face of Tawoo Peak, I traversed alone over to the south summit of Twin Buttes. With yet more interesting scrambling, I found another May 1969 Smatko register claiming a 'first recorded ascent'. It had been signed only one other time, by a park ranger in 1994, and Smatko dubbed the peak 'Woota Peak'.
The Woota Peak summit register

Returning to the car 1.5 hours before dark, I asked Matthew if he wanted to go off and bag Barber Benchmark (which I'd already done). He decided to call it a day and tick off Barber the following afternoon. After some dinner, we headed over to a fine desert car camping spot not far from Hole in the Wall.

Tortoise Shell Mountain - Rising casually Sunday morning, we decided to bag Tortoise Shell Mountain, which lies on the southeast corner of the Woods Mountains. With a few ups and downs as we crossed a couple canyons on the approach, the summit was soon bagged. It was not particularly memorable.
Views from Tortoise Shell Mountain

Wild Horse Mesa - Driving back up Wild Horse Canyon, we parked where we had for North/South Tower the morning before and started up the east ridge of the mesa. With surprisingly fun scrambling, we accidentlly passed right by the highpoint in pursuit of another point a bit away that appeared higher. Soon realizing our error, we backtracked to the true highpoint, where we found a cairn and register. We descended via the somewhat interesting east face.
The view toward Edgar and Mitchell from Wild Horse Mesa

Hole in the Wall - Since DB and I had already climbed Barber Benchmark via Hole in the Wall (the only decent way to climb it!) a couple/few years earlier, we agreed to hang out and explore Hole in the Wall and Banshee Canyon while Matthew bagged the peak. It was a fun time to scramble around and snag a few photos.

Banshee Canyon
Matthew climbing Barber Benchmark, from across Banshee Canyon
Where's Waldo?

By the time Matthew finished up with Barber, I'd polished off the last of my water, kicked off my shoes, and was in the mood to recline. So with a bit of sadness, we bid Matthew farewell and bee-lined it to Mad Greek in Primm (the one without the roaches on the counters).

New Orleans!

2010-01-05T06:30:00.000-08:00

Where: New Orleans, Louisiana
When: December 2009
Mama Joy with some strange lizard
DB and I made a highly enjoyable return to the east coast, starting with a 4-day visit with her fun and hospitable family in New Orleans. After many hours spent chatting, sightseeing, stuffing our guts with etoufee, stuffed peppers, crawfish, pralines, gumbo and oyster po-boys, it was soon time to walk some of it off at the famous Audubon Zoo!
DB with a leopard
Two psychos
The classic white alligator
The ultra-cool maned wolf!
Louisiana black bear -- Who knew they existed?
A large orangutan
A siamese twin snake...!
A pit viper
Orangutan
A silverback!
Giraffe
Gorilla
Gila monsters
Elephant

Jumbo Peak (Again!)

2009-12-14T18:02:00.000-08:00

Where: Southern Nevada
When: December 2009
Who: Matthew Holliman, Adam Helman & Bob Packard
Jumbo Peak
Heading up Jumbo

Matthew, Adam & Bob on the summit
A new register
Bob preparing to rappel from Jumbo
Matthew descending the SW chimney

Muddy Highpoint & Colorock Summit

2009-12-14T17:53:00.001-08:00

Where: Southern Nevada
When: December 2009
Who: DB, Matthew Holliman, Adam Helman & Bob Packard
Hidden Valley
Adam in Hidden Valley
Heading up Muddy Highpoint
Muddy Highpoint register
View from Colorock Summit

Bighorn Peak & Mind's Eye

2009-12-02T08:06:00.001-08:00

Where: Zion National Park, Utah
When: November 2009
Who: DB
On the summit of Bighorn Peak
DB and I recently picked our way up two new peaks (both minor) in Zion. I dubbed a very minor one Mind's Eye, for the trippy, funky and ultra-cool formation I found in the summit block. The other was so dubbed for the 24 (!) bighorn sheep we saw on its slopes. Nice!

Most Excellent Tabeau Peak!

2009-12-02T07:37:00.001-08:00

Where: Southwestern Utah, near Mesquite, Nevada
When: November 2009
Who: Solo
Tabeau Peak from the northwest
A short, fun hike up the north ridge (with crappy loose talus as one gets high on the mountain, unfortunately) leads to a fantastic, exposed class 4 wall that tops out directly onto the summit. Check it out, man!
Summit views

The South Face of Gooseberry Mesa

2009-12-02T07:26:00.000-08:00

Where: near Zion National Park, Utah
When: November 2009
Who: DB
Working up Gooseberry Mesa
Rather than make the slog across the rolling slickrock and pinyon-juniper from the mesa top to the summit itself, I decided to explore a direct route up the south face. While the route went, it was steep and very loose, with a dangerous traverse near the top.
DB scrambling the south face

Greatheart Mesa

2009-12-02T07:18:00.000-08:00

Where: Zion National Park, Utah
North Guardian Angel and neighbors from Greatheart Mesa
Scrambling en route to Greatheart

Bark and Dike

2009-12-02T07:08:00.001-08:00

Where: near Apex, Nevada
When: November 2009
Who: DB
DB cruising up Dike Benchmark
As the mood hit us, DB and I had been ticking off the obscure peaks near Apex. In addition to the unnamed peaks (some of which are interesting), we had our eyes set on some of the named benchmark peaks.
Taking in the views from the summit of Bark Benchmark

The Little Altar

2009-12-02T07:02:00.000-08:00

Where: Zion National Park, Utah
When: November 2009
Who: Sarah & Dominic Meiser, Dwight Sunwall and Matthew Holliman
Matthew and Dwight arriving on the summit
After a failed attempt on this striking and obscure mountain with Bo Beck several years earlier, I returned with Dwight, Sarah, Dominic and Matthew and we ticked this puppy off from the other side. Surprisingly, the route went easily (albeit steeply, loosely and somewhat dangerously!).
Our crew on the summit

Hogwarts (My 3rd Time!)

2009-11-10T12:34:00.000-08:00

Where: North Wash, Utah
When: November 2009
Who: Sarah & Dominic Meiser and Aron Ralston
Aron enjoying the sweetest rappel of the canyon
Dominic working across the silo, as the rope prepares to bail
Wrapping up a glorious time on the final rappel!
More photos:
Aron getting on the arch rappel
Dominic on rappel!
Aron on the final rap as Sarah looks on
Sarah finishing up the arch rappel
A squeeze then a stem
The tongue wagger!

Dante's Paradiso

2009-11-10T12:20:00.000-08:00

Where: Bullfrog, Utah
When: November 2009
Who: Ram, Steve Levin, Roger Briggs, Sarah & Dominic Meiser, and Aron Ralston
Steve, Dominic, Sarah and Roger near the Dante system
Endless exploration...
Getting closer...
And across the silos we go!
Dominic at the start of the 2nd half of Paradiso
Roger doesn't need any stinkin' help!
Steve working through the final tough stem in Paradiso
Funky downclimb near the end
View from the summit of a small peak I climbed in the late afternoon
More photos:
At the big pothole

At the giant keeper
"Lake" Powell
Ram at the final stem in Paradiso
Ah, Inferno!
Paradise from Dantes Hill
Returning to the rim
Sarah taking on the first silo

Looking down on the mouth of Paradiso

Shenanigans & Main Leprechaun

2009-11-10T11:53:00.000-08:00

Where: North Wash, Utah
When: November 2009
Who: Ram, Steve Levin, Sarah & Dominic Meiser, Aron Ralston, Dan Ransom, Matt Brechta, Roger Briggs, and Landon from Salt Lake (Shenanigans) / Sarah & Dominic Meiser, Aron Ralston, Landon from Salt Lake, and Chuck from Salt Lake (Main Lep)
Heading to Shenanigans
Although I'd descended the very tight main fork of Leprechaun several years earlier and found it to be delightful (though DB got stuck!), I'd repeatedly put off the area classic Shenanigans because it was said to be so tight that anyone over 180 pounds would not fit through. After a hard-working summer in the mountains, and a fall that was nearly as active, my weight was trimmed to precisely 180 pounds! I was ready (sort of)!
Roger in Shenanigans
Ram in Shenanigans
Tight!
...and physical
Misfits, all of 'em
Turns out, Shenanigans was a delight. With some help from Ram and others, I squeezed through with surprisingly little effort (other than the psychological kind). I'd love to go back and do it again...but first, we headed off for another Main Leprechaun run!
Like a breath of fresh air, good to be back!
More of that tight stuff
More photos:
Aron going emo in Shenanigans
Blurry but seeping emotion
Chuck in Main Lep
Dropping into Shenanigans
The final rappel in Shenanigans
First drop in Shenanigans -- Ram downclimbed it
Downclimbing into a slimy pothole in Shenanigans
Main Lep was more skinny than I remembered it
Sarah chillin' in Shenanigans
In the bowels of Shenanigans
The depths of Shenanigans
Approaching the mouth of Shenanigans
Shenanigans - final sequence
The Grim Crawl

Alligator, Buried Mountain & Black Hill

2009-11-03T07:07:00.001-08:00

Where: Outside Indio, California
When: October 2009
Who: DB & I
Ants, living their special lives
While I'd had every desire to hike up San Gorgonio and a couple of the sub-peaks of San Jacinto while in Indio for Phish Festival 8, the experience was too overwhelming to do anything more than bag a trio of short, easy peaks in the desert not far from the venue. Still, a rewarding time was had!
Summit of Alligator
Summit of Black Hill

The Blythe Intaglios

2009-11-03T06:50:00.000-08:00

Where: Outside Blythe, California
When: October 2009
Who: DB & I

Our friend Jason Pease brought these intaglios to my attention a year or so ago. Since then, I'd had it in the back of my mind to check them out the next time I was in the seedy neighborhood of Blythe. While driving to Festival 8 at the end of October, we found the time...

A Fall Romp in Death Valley

2009-10-27T09:33:00.001-07:00

Where: Death Valley National Park, California
When: October 2009
Who: DB, Double-A, Lolli, Lisa & Geoff
Andy atop a small peak near Zabriskie Point
Lolli was visiting from Sweden, and DB and I were delighted to play Death Valley host to her for a couple days. We started with a hike around Death Valley Buttes:
At the base of Death Valley Buttes
A cairn in the desert
Next morning, DB, Andy, Lolli and I headed for beautiful Sidewinder Canyon:
DB & Lolli heading to Sidewinder
In the dark and gloomy depths of Sidewinder

Baptist Draw - Upper Chute

2009-10-27T09:13:00.001-07:00

Where: San Rafael Swell, Utah
When: October 2009
Who: Kip Marshall & Double-A
Above the first rap in Baptist Draw
Kip suggested we take a run through a short but very pretty slot in the Swell known as Baptist Draw. With a couple good rappels and an awesome exit via upper Chute Canyon, the loop was highly rewarding!
Top of the 2nd rap in Baptist Draw
In the depths of Upper Chute
Andy squeezing through Upper Chute
Kip's pics:
Kip
In Baptist Draw

Andy at the first rap
On the 2nd rap

Lomatium & Krill (Fiery Furnace)

2009-10-27T08:14:00.001-07:00

Where: Arches National Park, Utah
When: October 2009
Who: Kip Marshall, Double-A, Andy Mac & Morgan
On the first rappel in Lomatium
Ram first mentioned Fiery Furnace to me a couple years back. Said he'd been through it about twenty times. Then Kip started mentioning it. A classic tour, word had it.
Finishing the first rappel in Lomatium
Kip invited me to join him on his annual trip to the Furnace once or twice before, and this time, I joined him. And it did not disappoint!
At the 2nd rappel in Lomatium
Skull Arch
Wandering the Furnace
Headed for Krill
In the Belly of the Whale
Exposed scrambling near the final fin walk
Fin walking in the Furnace
Atop Surprise Arch
Stemming through The Cave
Emerging from The Cave
Kip's pics:
Atop Hole in the Wall Arch

Lunching at Grand Central

Near the head of Lomatium
CP on the 2nd rap in Lomatium

In Krill

South Six-Shooter (II 5.8)

2009-10-27T07:36:00.000-07:00

Where: Indian Creek, Utah
When: October 2009
Who: Double-A, Andy Mac and Morgan
Andy Mac, Morgan & Andy A in front of South Six-Shooter
On a perfect fall morning, the four of us set out for a climb up beautiful South Six-Shooter. Morgan volunteered to take the lead, and did a fantastic job bringing us to the base of the summit block.
North Six-Shooter from South Six-Shooter
At the crux
With a funky mantle followed by a juggy pull to the top, we looked over and saw that the next block over was about a foot higher. With no pro and 5.8(ish) climbing, only Andy Mac had the nerve to take the sharp end. He led beautifully, and soon, me, Andy Mac and Morgan stood atop the highest block~!
On the true summit

DB Leaves the Nest (and Heads up Charleston)

2009-10-26T12:11:00.001-07:00

Where: Spring Mountains National Recreation Area, Nevada
When: October 2009
Who: Just DB and Harlan

Every baby bird must eventually leave the nest. So it was that DB joined forces with Harlan for her first ever trip up Charleston Peak. Bagging Lee Peak along the way, reports came back that they both had a wonderful time on Harlan's obscure route up from Lee Canyon. Dig Harlan's pictures!

On the summit of Lee Peak
Devils Thumb

Cave below the summit
On the summit!
Geesh
Harlan, imitating DB
Helicopter crash
Cruising down

Couple panos:

Harlan's site

Spirit Mountain (Again) & Devils Thumb

2009-10-13T06:42:00.000-07:00

Where: Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada
When: October 2009
Partners: DB, Dimples & Lori Curry
Dimples, me and DB at the trailhead
After a five year absence, I returned to Spirit Mountain with DB, Lori and Dimples. Dimples had accompanied me on my only previous visit to the mountain on 12-23-04. He and I were eager to return. Little did he know, but I had plans to continue along to the north from Spirit's summit and bag its rugged neighbor, Devils Thumb. And so I did! It was a great, educational day out with friends.
Dimples...into the wild
Enjoying the topography
Atop a small crag we climbed on the way to Spirit
I'd stood on the edge of this crag 5 years earlier too...
The many crags and spires of Spirit Mountain
Crag scramblin'!
Little DB poses just below the summit
Dimples reaches the summit
Our happy group on top
Tired Lori on her way toward Devils Thumb
3rd anniversary pose below Spirit Mountain
CP, Lori and DB
Tarantula!
Aaah, Spirit!
All photos courtesy of Lori Curry (thanks Lori C.!)

An Exploratory Ascent of Hop Valley Peak

2009-10-04T17:43:00.001-07:00

Where: Zion National Park, UT
When: October 2009
Partners: DB & Andy Archibald
DB in a hidden slot we stumbled upon during the ascent
After a four-month absence, DB and I returned to Zion for an exploratory of an unnamed peak above Hop Valley. Double-A gladly joined us for the adventure. With plenty of tricky route-finding and a ton of brush, we first bagged the central summit then headed to the main (north) summit of what we would come to call 'Hop Valley Peak'. A different (and equally convoluted) descent took us on outta there. A fine day out!
Looking south-southwest from the main summit

A Coyote Skull in the Desert

2009-09-30T13:10:00.001-07:00

Where: Lake Mead National Recreation Area
When: September 2009
Partners: Dimples
Coyote skull and disembodied hand in the desert
During an enjoyable 3-peak dayhike one afternoon, I stumbled across a coyote skull in a wash below the peak I climbed. It was a thrill to find this beautiful artifact, and it never ceases to amaze me what wonderful things you can run into in the desert. Rather than take it with me, I left it perched for others to enjoy in a colorful alcove below a neighboring mountain.

Snow Crown

2009-09-21T08:02:00.000-07:00

Where: Eastern Sierra Nevada (near Independence, CA)
When: September 2009
Partners: DB
Big Pothole Lake below University Peak (left), Nameless Pyramid (center) and Snow Crown (right)
I had no idea that someone in the early 1950s had dubbed the unnamed peak between Mount Gould and University Peak as "Snow Crown." With an enjoyable class 3 scramble to the summit via its north ridge, and then an easy class 2 descent down the southeast slope to Bench Lake, it was a highly enjoyable, mellow, and ultra-scenic day out.
DB in front of Mount Bago, Kearsarge and Bullfrog Lakes
Nameless Pyramid from the north ridge of Snow Crown
Taking a breather along the north ridge, Heart Lake, Flower Lake and Gilbert Lake beckon
DB, Upper Kearsarge Lake and some of the Kearsarge Pinnacles from the summit
A 1952 register still resides on the summit
The 1960 entry of Tom Ross
A black bear near Bench Lake
DB at Bench Lake
DB & Bench Lake

Wonoga Peak

2009-09-21T07:36:00.001-07:00

Where: Eastern Sierra (near Lone Pine, CA)
When: September 2009
Partners: DB
DB on the summit
On a motivation-less Sunday, DB and I opted for the short hike up Wonoga Peak. Doing an enjoyable loop of the mountain, we were suitably impressed with the massive summit views down to Owens Valley.

Clinton Peak & Mount Reagan

2009-09-15T08:44:00.000-07:00

Where: Spring Mountains, Southern Nevada
When: September 2009
Partners: DB & Hugh de Q
CP climbing a wall toward Clinton's summit ridge...
Harlan took us on a tour of Clinton and Reagan. With some steep forest hiking leading to some steeper rock scrambling to the highpoint of Clinton, the entire day proved to be wonderful and highly rewarding. Thanks Hugh~!
CP's climbing apparel
The class 3 break in the upper cliffs
Harlan de Q
Hugh and DB on the summit
A beautiful, ancient tree
All but final two photos courtesy of Hugh de Harlan

Summit for Heroes 4-Peak Hike

2009-09-14T08:48:00.000-07:00

Where: White Mountains, Nevada
When: September 2009
Partners: The Summit for Heroes team
The Summit for Heroes team in camp
I was honored to be invited to join the Summit for Heroes team for a hike up Nevada's highest mountain, Boundary Peak, on Friday, September 11, 2009. Joining the team in camp the evening before, we enjoyed some quality campfire time before turning in.
Boundary Peak from Trail Canyon Peak
Rising the next morning, the team collected itself and then set out toward Boundary. Along the way, I couldn't resist the urge to bag Trail Canyon Peak. Snapping a quick shot of Boundary from the summit, I signed the register and then started down to meet up with the rest of the team at the Trail Canyon saddle.
On the summit
It didn't seem like long before we found ourselves on the summit of Nevada's highest peak. It was a perfect day! It felt great to be on this quality summit, one I hadn't set foot on in more than four years.

Before descending, I commented to some in our party that the highly aesthetic 100-foot, needle-like spire just north of (and below) the summit should be the actual highpoint. It appeared to be rather challenging to surmount, but within minutes I found myself wandering that way...
Boundary Spire (5.2)
The climb up Boundary Spire was interesting, easy 5th class. A tiny summit!
The register on Mustang Mountain
Returning to the trailhead, I had too much energy left to simply sit around camp...so I set off to climb Kennedy Point and then Mustang Mountain. Atop Mustang, I found an old register tin placed by none other than Walt Wheelock half a century earlier. Good stuff!

A fine day out with fine folks. I am glad I was able to come along.

False White Mountain

2009-09-14T08:39:00.001-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park, California
When: September 2009
Partners: Solo
Near the summit of False White Mountain
On the last of three great days in Yosemite, I set off at daybreak one morning for a quick romp up False White Mountain (12,002 feet) from Tioga Lake. Stumbling cross several beautiful and hidden lakes along the way, the early-morning views as I approached the top were tremendous.

Mammoth Peak & Kuna Crest North

2009-09-14T08:28:00.000-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park, California
When: September 2009
Partners: DB
On the summit of Mammoth Peak
DB and I found tremendous enjoyment in climbing Mammoth Peak via the class 3-4 (a touch of class 5 here and there, if you stick to the crest) northeast ridge. Descending south from the summit, I made my way over to Kuna Crest North, before returning to meet DB below the Mammoth-Kuna saddle and descending to the east-northeast. A great day out!

Oh yeah, DB found a big pile of fresh bear scat along the way.

Parker Peak & Mount Wood

2009-09-14T08:19:00.000-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park, California
When: September 2009
Partners: DB
Approaching the summit of Parker Peak
DB and I headed back to Yosemite for a long hike to Parker Peak and Mount Wood out of the Mono Pass trailhead. With an easy and pleasant, level(ish) approach all the way to Parker Pass, the trail lost a little elevation as it passed by some charming lakes and then made its slow way up to Koip Peak Pass. From there, Parker was a short hike away.

Beyond, Mount Wood beckoned me...and I answered. A very minor lump, it's a summit barely worth visiting.
Parker Peak summit shot

Scaling Mount Everest

2009-09-14T07:35:00.001-07:00

Where: Spring Mountains, Southern Nevada
When: September 2009
Partners: Andy Archibald
In the Everest cave
Double-A and I headed out one morning to bag Mount Everest. Not the big peak over there somewhere in Asia, but rather, my name for a minor peak just north-northeast of McFarland Peak in the Spring Mountains near Vegas.
Wild horse
With a pleasant hike up the north ridge, we built a small cairn on the summit and then dropped down into the canyon to the immediate west. With easy hiking, some brush, and a fun class 3 downclimb mid-way down, we found a neat shelter cave at a major confluence and stopped for a bite to eat.

On the way out, wild horses in the trees!
Double-A with wild horses

Rosy Finch Peak

2009-09-01T08:37:00.000-07:00

Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: August 2009
Partners: Harlan Stockman
Little Lakes Valley
I'd read that the north ridge of Rosy Finch Peak was a "fine class 4 route" to a sweet, little mountain. I recruited Harlan, and off we went.
Heading up Rosy Finch's steep lower north ridge
On the summit
The register
Views on the descent
Good scrambling on the descent
Good times!
Photos courtesy of Harlan WS

Mount Tom & Hanging Valley Peak

2009-09-01T08:05:00.001-07:00

Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: August 2009
Partners: Harlan Stockman
Approaching Mount Tom from near the Horton Lake Trailhead
After a spring 2005 failed attempt of the super long and tedious north ridge of Mount Tom in horrible snow conditions, I returned with Hugh de Q for a slog up the mellow other side. With Tom having a roundtrip of 16 miles and 6,000 feet of gain (we started 600 vertical feet below the trailhead), it was an enjoyable day of exercise...and I even got in a bonus peak, climbing the enjoyable class 3-4 south ridge of "Hanging Valley Peak" on the way back.
Horton Lake
Relaxing on the summit
Somebody slogged up here in 1933 and left this plaque
We see that Pedro Yamagata signed the register
Summit shenanigans
CP on the summit
Photos courtesy of Harlan de Q

North Peak's Northwest Ridge (II 5.3)

2009-08-23T12:59:00.000-07:00

Where: Yosemite National Park, California
When: August 2009
Partners: DB & Andy Archibald
Bringing DB up the northwest ridge
We tried to get to North Peak in September 2008 but nasty weather and bitter-cold temperatures kept us away. This time, the forecast called for thunderstorms. So we set out early and tried to beat them.
Summit pose
As it turned out, the weather was just fine. After some excellent scrambling (and just a touch of 5th class climbing), we soon found ourselves on a sunny summit with awesome views in the 360.
Mount Conness from near the North-Conness saddle
The hike out (via the SW slope and Conness Lakes) was easy, quick, and mega-aesthetic. The lakes!
DB at Conness Lakes

Trapezoid Peak

2009-08-23T12:47:00.001-07:00

Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: August 2009
Partners: Solo
The northeast face of Trapezoid
I'd read that the class 4 northeast ridge of Trapezoid was a fun route to this semi-obscure peak in the Bishop Creek drainage. As it turned out, the ridge was indeed quite fun. And the views from the top were excellent. 5h10m car-to-car.
Looking southwest from Trapezoid

Cloudripper & Vagabond Peak

2009-08-23T12:31:00.000-07:00

Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: August 2009
Partners: DB
Approaching Cloudripper's summit via the West Chute
I'd been meaning to get to Cloudripper for some 7 years. I finally made the time to tick it off. After ascending the enjoyable class 3 West Chute, we headed over to Vagabond Peak, ultimately descending that peak's awful class 2 West Chute.
Descending Cloudripper en route to Vagabond

Mount Rixford & Falcor Peak

2009-08-23T12:15:00.001-07:00

Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: August 2009
Partners: DB
A perfect morning at Kearsarge Pass
DB and I spent an enjoyable day climbing Falcor Peak and Mount Rixford out of Onion Valley. It was a fine day out that required an effort of about 17 miles and 5,500 feet of elevation gain, with some enjoyable class 3-4 scrambling on Falcor. The views from the top of Rixford were excellent.
On the summit of Mount Rixford

Finding Sunny Bunny on Game Benchmark

2009-08-23T12:06:00.000-07:00

Where: Mojave Desert, Southern Nevada
Partners: DB
Sunny Bunny
On a hike up the obscure but close-to-town Game Benchmark (aka "Apex Peak"), I got the hell scared out of me by a rather large rattlesnake in a wash on the approach. DB decided to name him Sunny Bunny. Despite all the desert peaks she's bagged, Sunny Bunny was DB's first rattlesnake sighting.

(Most of) The Rendezvous Mountain Traverse

2009-08-03T11:05:00.001-07:00

Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
When: July 2009
Partners: The Exotic One
DB on the first summit -- Peak 10,450
Being fully aware of how our extended roadtrip was drawing to a close, I came up with the idea of going out with a bang by doing the full Rendezvous Mountain traverse. The traverse would entail a sweet, ridgeline hike/scramble of all 7 summits on (or very near) the crest of the Rendezvous Mountain massif.

Cheating by riding the tram up the first 4,000 feet of gain (hey, the traverse still entailed an additional 4,500 feet of gain!), we set out!
DB on the summit of peak #2 -- Peak 10,753 ("Cody Peak")
Peak #2 from Peak #3 (Peak 10,706)
Between Peak #3 and Peak #5, I set off and bagged Peak #4 (Peak 10,277), which is a somewhat detached peak just west of the crest.
On the summit of Rendezvous Peak
Threatening weather chased us off the traverse's highpoint, Rendezvous Peak (11,927, #5). Since this was not (really) a loop, we descended from Rendezvous Peak then headed back across the western slopes of Peak 10,706, reclimbed Peak 10,753 and then crossed the saddle to reclimb Peak 10,450. The last two peaks of the traverse would have to wait for another day.
Pausing on the return

A Sweet Find...

2009-08-03T11:01:00.000-07:00

At the Green River crossing in Middle-of-Nowhere, Wyoming.

Wildlife On the Road

2009-08-03T10:53:00.001-07:00

Unlike summers past, 2009 was not a great year for wildlife sightings. Even Dow, who spends most of his summers in the Canadian Rockies (often solo), said he'd yet to see a bear that season.

Total count for the summer 2009 roadtrip: 3 bears (one in Kananaskis and 2 in Glacier NP), 1 moose and 1 fox. And a bunch of the "normal animals" = elk and mule deer.
A "cute, fuzzy dog" in Kananaskis Country
A sweet, little fox in Yellowstone

Paget Peak...and then, Tower of Babel

2009-08-03T10:38:00.001-07:00

Where: Yoho and Banff National Parks
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
The Paget Peak fire lookout
It was a rainy day in the forecast, so Andy and I got up early to knock out the 3,000 feet of gain to the summit of Paget Peak. Returning in 2:45 as the rain came, we drove over to Banff and sat in the Moraine Lake parking lot to wait for a clearing in the weather. When we got what we were looking for, we dashed off for the scrambling route on Tower of Babel, a 1,500-foot class 2ish ascent to a nice tower overlooking the lake. 1:15 car-to-car - shewww! And we beat the rain!
Paget Peak summit views

Mount Edith - South Ridge (II, 5.4)

2009-08-03T10:20:00.001-07:00

Where: Canadian Rockies, Alberta
When: July 2009
Partners: Dow Williams
Route-finding on the south ridge
Dow tossed out an idea for the Kain Route (III, 5.7) on Mount Louis and I started to drool. But it was gonna be 6 straight days of mountains for me, and I told him that I didn't know if I was game for a grade III route. How about something shorter, easier? He tossed out the south ridge (II, 5.4) of Mount Edith. The selected alpine guide said it was a 9ish hour car-to-car. Perfect!
On the summit
Six hours after starting from the car (including an hour spent looking for something I dropped near the summit -- ugh), we returned. I, for one, was stoked that the route was as enjoyable as it was. While a bit funky in a few places, the line was interesting and unusual, particularly a sustained (3-4 pitch), low-angle technical chimney/groove partway up. Funky!

Cube Point - East Ridge (5.4)

2009-08-03T09:57:00.001-07:00

Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
When: July 2009
Partners: DB
The Cathedral group from Cube Point
Glancing at the Teton guide, I decided, hey, why don't we hike up Cube Point? Seems it has an enjoyable class 4 scrambling route (not to mention a 3-pitch 5.4 east ridge route that's popular). I brought along a 120-foot rope and DB's harness, in case I didn't feel comfortable with her soloing the class 4 stuff.

Well, we couldn't help ourselves. That airy and exposed, narrow east ridge looked so fantastic that we got on it and enjoyed the crap out of ourselves. I didn't have a harness or any pro, but it was a reasonable solo and I was able to anchor off horns to bring DB up second. Classic!
Summit joy!

Mount Moran - CMC Route (II, 5.5)

2009-08-03T09:02:00.001-07:00

Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
Mount Moran
I'd wanted to climb Mount Moran since climbing Grand Teton in 2006. In 2007, my friend Walt and I got permits for the peak's most classic route, the CMC Route. A climbing ranger told me that the CMC Route was the classic route in the Tetons. It's not hard to imagine how stoked I was. Unfortunately, Walt's truck broke down in Idaho and we scrapped Moran for another time. This go-round, Andy Mac was a willing (and enthusiastic) participant.
East Horn on the approach up the Falling Ice Glacier drainage
Renting a canoe, we paddled across String Lake, portaged to Leigh Lake, then paddled across to the bottom of the Falling Ice Glacier drainage. The beta said it was then a 4-6 hour hike to camp. We did it in less than 2 with overnight packs. Camp was delightful, and I didn't at all mind choking down my bland, heat-in-the-bag type mashed potatoes for dinner that night.
West Horn from low on the face
The beta also said that summit day was a 10-14 hour roundtrip from camp. We did it in less than 6 (including an episode with a tangled rope on the rappel from Drizzelpuss, and a snagged rope on the descent from the CMC face). Free-soloing the ascent of the very sweet and solid, 1000-foot 5.4 CMC face was a cruise. What a route!

West Horn, Drizzlepuss and Oensold's Needle (L-to-R) from midway up the CMC face
Soloing the face
High on the CMC face
The short walk to the highpoint
Our friend Walt's name in the register!
The crux of the route, interestingly enough, is a 5.5 pitch on the return, when one must reclimb Drizzlepuss, an aesthetic crag near the base of the CMC face. Once back on top of Drizzlepuss, it was 30 minutes back to camp, then another hour to the canoe (after packing up camp).

It seems most parties do this route in 2 or 3 days. For the fit and capable, this is a reasonable 10-12 hour dayhike from the car.

Yukness Mountain in Fabulous Lake O'Hara

2009-08-03T08:41:00.001-07:00

Where: Yoho National Park, Canadian Rockies
When: July 2009
Partners: Solo
Obaphin Lake, on the approach
Scoring a walk-up ticket onto the shuttle bus to Lake O'Hara one morning (see, they set a quota on how many people can visit pristine Lake O'Hara each day, and the reservations are gone months in advance), I was stoked to finally see this most spectacular of spots in the Rockies. It didn't disappoint.
Mounts Huber and Victoria from the summit of Yukness
The scramble up Yukness Mountain went quickly. The upper mountain was rugged and interesting, and the views were intense. I just wish I'd had the talent to make my camera capture the scene as it was.
Lake Oesa and Abbot Pass from the summit
Uber-impressive Mt. Biddle (a mountain I'd never heard of) from the summit

Mount Niblock, Despite the Bad Weather

2009-08-03T08:26:00.001-07:00

Where: Banff National Park, Canadian Rockies
When: July 2009
Partners: DB & Andy Mac
Working up Niblock through the occasional break in the clouds
Well, the weather in Banff sucked one day but we decided to head up Mount Niblock anyway. Only occasionally did we get views. The ascent (all 4,100 vertical) was largely a slog. The last 100 feet were pleasant. The descent was quick. The pictures make it look better than it was. 'Nuff said.
High on Niblock
DB on the summit of Mount Niblock

Fairview Mountain & Saddle Mountain

2009-08-03T08:20:00.001-07:00

Where: Banff National Park, Canadian Rockies
When: July 2009
Partners: DB
Fair views on Fairview
On our first day in Banff National Park, DB and I headed up Fairview Mountain. We'd heard the views were terrific, and they were! Afterward, we bagged Saddle Mountain, a smaller mountain with excellent views of Mount Temple, a mountain I'd ascended in 2007.

Lac (Lake) Louise

2009-08-03T08:15:00.001-07:00

Where: Banff National Park, Canadian Rockies
When: July 2009
DB at Lac Louise
On an eventual rest day, DB and I elected to sit at fabulous Lake Louise and people-watch, always an enjoyable way to spend a day. Unfortunately, weather rolled in and we had to shift into the nearby Chateau Lake Louise and suffer through the Harp Angel with her plastic smile.

Mount Lady MacDonald

2009-08-03T08:04:00.001-07:00

Where: Canadian Rockies
When: July 2009
Partners: Solo
False summit from the true summit
Heading out solo on day #4 of 6 straight days without a rest, I decided to kick things up a notch and move. Dow'd mentioned that Mount Lady MacDonald, which features 4,300 feet of elevation gain and a class 4 summit knife edge ridge that few people actually cross, was a local classic. I started out running, and returned to the car 3:15 later. An exhilarating effort that felt great.
A sweet family of sheep encountered on the descent

Mount Wilbur - An Ill-Fated Effort

2009-08-03T07:55:00.000-07:00

Where: Glacier National Park, Montana
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
Mount Wilbur
Andy and I had Mount Wilbur somewhere high on the list for our pass through Glacier National Park. But rising casually one morning, we headed to the ranger station with a casual hike in mind and saw that today was our only day of good weather in the forecast. So, with a 10:30 AM start, we didn't bother glancing at the beta and merely set out for the top...jogging.

Without a clear idea which way we were supposed to go, we did some bushwhacking and then fought our way up steep, slippery slopes to some cliff bands partway up the mountain. We separated in the effort to find a way through. And that's the last we saw of each other for a couple hours...

Each thinking that the other was a) lost, or b) dead, we eventually gave up and started back down. Soon enough, we spotted each other again from a distance. But morale was crushed by then, and we sheepishly returned to the trailhead. Wilbur, it seems, will have to wait 'til next time.

Reynolds Mountain & The Dragon's Tail

2009-08-03T07:19:00.001-07:00

Where: Glacier National Park, Montana
When: July 2009
Partners: DB, Michele Reyes, Lacey Lebron and Andy Mac
Reynolds Mountain from near Logan Pass
I hadn't been to Glacier National Park since 2001 and had been itching to get back. A fun group assembled for a romp up Reynolds Mountain.
Reynolds, on the approach
A view of Bearhat Mountain on the approach to Reynolds
On our way up
Almost to the top
A fun traverse just below the summit
Walking to the highpoint
Summit shenanigans
Cannon Mountain, Clements Mountain and Hidden Lake from Reynolds' summit
From the summit, Andy and I started salivating over an aesthetic fin-peak called The Dragon's Tail across the way, so...
On to our next objective...
A funky view of Reynolds from The Dragon's Tail

Ha Ling Peak and Miners Peak

2009-08-03T07:12:00.000-07:00

Where: Canadian Rockies
When: July 2009
Partners: DB
DB on the summit of Ha Ling Peak
We'd meant to hike up popular Ha Ling Peak in 2007 but never got it done. This time, with Dow and Stacy's high recommendation, we made the beautiful hike to the top of this stunning peak. The summit views east were outrageous! Afterward, we bagged nearby Miners Peak as a bonus. Nice!

Cheops Mountain

2009-08-03T06:56:00.001-07:00

Where: Glacier National Park, British Columbia
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
Looking west-northwest back across the summit ridge
Andy and I were cautioned by rangers at Rogers Pass of an active mother grizzly bear and her cub near the Balu Pass headwall we'd work by on our way to Cheops Mountain, so it was with plenty of loud singing and bear calls that we made our way up the mountain. With a stunning approach and an even more stunning summit ridge to a classic summit, it was (at the time, perhaps) the sweetest summit of the summer.
West-southwest from the summit
Views along the way
Though we never saw the bears, we saw plenty of digging and a couple piles of fresh scat.
Uh oh! Fresh grizzly scat

Eldorado Peak

2009-08-02T11:36:00.000-07:00

Where: North Cascades National Park, Washington
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
Johannesburg Mountain overlooks our 5,800-ft camp
Andy and I set out to do an overnight climb of Eldorado Peak. With 7,000 feet of elevation gain, we weren't thrilled about carrying our heavy packs to the recommended 7,500-foot ice plateau camp. Instead, we reached a flat spot at 5,800 feet, set up camp, and left for the summit. Bagging it in fine style under perfect skies and good conditions, we eventually returned to camp, made dinner, and relaxed for an evening before a leisurely hike out the next morning.
On the ice plateau below the east ridge
Eldorado's mega-classic summit ridge
On the summit
Summit view southeast to Forbidden Peak and company
Summit view north-northwest
North-northeast to Klawatti and Austera

Copper Point via North Ridge & Pica Peak

2009-08-02T11:05:00.001-07:00

Where: North Cascades, Washington
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac, Ram, Little Ram, Sonny Lawrence and Mark from SoCA
Copper Point from Pica Peak
I'd spied the steep and delicious north ridge of Copper Point from nearby Wallaby Peak and shortly after suggested to Ram that we check it out. Perusing the Beckey guide, the aesthetic line was sandbagged at 3rd class.
Views west-northwest from the summit of Copper Point
Making the short and pretty approach to the ridge, we were shocked by how steep and narrow, loose and exposed this "class 3" ridge was. Turns out, it was only class 4 but the exposed and loose crap was unnerving at times. We opted for a different way down...then headed to Pica Peak.
Ram and Little Ram descending from Copper Point
Eventually regathering on the summit of Pica Peak, Mark and I bid farewell to the others (who were headed on to Blue Lake Peak) and started down from the col east of Pica Peak. DB and I were headed to the Selkirks!
On the small summit of Pica Peak
The crew on Pica Peak

Wallaby Peak and Mauri Point

2009-08-02T10:36:00.000-07:00

Where: North Cascades, Washington
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
Big Kangaroo & Half Moon from the summit of Wallaby Peak
Andy and I decided to bag obscure Wallaby Peak. To our delight, the southwest ridge is a fun route with great scenery. Afterward, we scrambled up nearby Mauri Point, a more exposed but horribly loose class 3-4 crag.
Downclimbing gravelly Mauri Point

Liberty Bell's Beckey Route (5.6) and the North Face (5.6) of Concord Tower

2009-08-02T10:23:00.001-07:00

Where: North Cascades, Washington
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
On the summit of Liberty Bell Mountain
Andy Mac and I teamed up to bag the Washington Pass ultra-classic Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. Afterward, we did the more interesting north face of Concord Tower. A fine day out!
Looking over to the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell from the summit of Concord Tower
Did I mention the mosquitoes back at the trailhead?

Sauk Mountain

2009-08-02T10:09:00.001-07:00

Where: North Cascades, Washington
When: June 2009
Partners: DB
Mount Baker from the way up Sauk Mountain
On a rest day, DB and I hiked up Sauk Mountain. The views, of course, were spectacular.
Mount Shuksan from near the summit of Sauk
Descending Sauk Mountain

The Tooth, uh, I mean Kaleetan Peak

2009-08-02T09:58:00.000-07:00

Where: Washington Cascades near Snoqualmie Pass
When: June 2009
Partners: DB & a bunch of other people
Chair Peak from the summit of Kaleetan Peak
We set out to climb The Tooth one morning but somehow ended up getting tossed into a group of Seattle Mountaineers climbing some peak I'd never heard of before. I'll save the ridiculous details for some campfire story sometime, but suffice it to say, the group's piss-poor leadership (not me, mind you, but some pompous ego-maniac) led to a Search and Rescue call-out for one of the Mountaineers members after he got separated from the group. Regardless, it was a fine peak. And the missing Mountaineer was fine.

The Tatoosh's Denman Peak

2009-08-02T09:42:00.000-07:00

Where: Mount Rainier National Park, Washington
When: June 2009
Partners: DB
Heading up from the Pinnacle-Plummer saddle
While a trivial endeavor in dry, summer conditions, we set out for Denman Peak in very snowy conditions after a ranger told us that "no one's going up there yet, 'cause it's too dangerous." Not so. With a little care, it was a fine half-day's outing.
On the snowy summit of Denman Peak
Denman finally appears through the clouds

Historic Sourdough Mountain

2009-08-02T09:27:00.000-07:00

Where: North Cascades National Park, Washington
When: July 2009
Partners: DB
Approaching Sourdough's historic fire lookout
Ever since my fascination with Jack Kerouac led me to the top of Desolation Peak in 2001, I'd been eager to bag the other historic "Beat" lookouts of the North Cascades. Sauk came after Desolation, then finally, DB and I trudged the 5,100 feet of gain to the top of Phil Whalen's Sourdough. Only Crater Mountain awaits now!
Departing Sourdough as Jack Mountain watches

Mount Bachelor's North Face

2009-08-02T09:11:00.001-07:00

Where: Central Oregon Cascades
When: June 2009
Partners: DB
DB heading up Mount Bachelor
After some psycho wandered into our camp and creeped out our intended Mount Thielsen attempt the next day, DB and I instead headed to Bachelor as a consulation prize. As it turned out, it was a fine, snowy climb via the north face. Nice views!
Working up the upper mountain
Lounging on the summit

A Return to Crater Lake

2009-08-02T09:04:00.000-07:00

Where: Crater Lake National Park, Oregon
When: June 2009
Crater Lake in mid-June
Leaving the Sierra and headed to the Washington Cascades, DB and I couldn't resist the opportunity to revisit (however briefly) Crater Lake. Still buried in snow (it even snowed while we were there), the park was its usual awesome self.

Wild Roses

2009-06-15T07:44:00.001-07:00

Where: Zion National Park, UT
When: June 2009
Partners: DB & Double-A
Wildflowers galore in Wild Roses
With just enough flow to make things particularly pretty (and the slightest bit splashy), Wild Roses was a delightful outing in the Zion backcountry.
Andy on the first rappel in Wild Roses
Playing around in the shallow upper narrows
The 2nd rappel, a biggun
DB gets in on the fun

Horse Pasture Plateau

2009-06-15T07:36:00.000-07:00

Where: Zion National Park, UT
When: June 2009
Partners: DB, Dimples & Mishka
Some of the views from the summit of Horse Pasture Plateau
After all I've done in Zion, it was hard for me to imagine that I'd not yet made the long hike to the top of Horse Pasture Plateau. Although the Plateau might not seem like much of a summit, it happens to be the highpoint of the West Rim Trail and affords intense panoramic views into Phantom Valley, down the Right Fork drainage, and across to dozens of rarely (and some un-) climbed peaks.

Since we came up from Zion Canyon, we decided to cap off the 17-mile, 4,400 feet of gain roundtrip day with a bonus bag of Angels Landing on the way out. Good stuff!

The Bishopric (Possible 2nd Ascent)

2009-06-09T07:57:00.000-07:00

Where: Zion National Park, UT
When: June 2009
Partners: Little Ram
Little Ram on the route
In April 2007, a two-man team got lost in the Zion backcountry and managed to make the first ascent of The Bishopric while in the process of finding their way out. They were out three days before they returned to civilization. In June 2009, Aaron Ramras and I set out to dayhike the peak.

16 miles and 5,000 vertical feet of cross-country elevation gain, plus some easy technical scrambling on the peak, gave us a return time of 13 hours to our vehicle. It was a fine day out, with some of the best scenery I've ever seen anywhere!
Scrambling the upper route
Aaron at the top of the route
Views from near the summit