Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
When: July 2009
Partners: The Exotic One
Being fully aware of how our extended roadtrip was drawing to a close, I came up with the idea of going out with a bang by doing the full Rendezvous Mountain traverse. The traverse would entail a sweet, ridgeline hike/scramble of all 7 summits on (or very near) the crest of the Rendezvous Mountain massif.
Cheating by riding the tram up the first 4,000 feet of gain (hey, the traverse still entailed an additional 4,500 feet of gain!), we set out!
Between Peak #3 and Peak #5, I set off and bagged Peak #4 (Peak 10,277), which is a somewhat detached peak just west of the crest.
Threatening weather chased us off the traverse's highpoint, Rendezvous Peak (11,927, #5). Since this was not (really) a loop, we descended from Rendezvous Peak then headed back across the western slopes of Peak 10,706, reclimbed Peak 10,753 and then crossed the saddle to reclimb Peak 10,450. The last two peaks of the traverse would have to wait for another day.
(Most of) The Rendezvous Mountain Traverse
Cube Point - East Ridge (5.4)
Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
When: July 2009
Partners: DB
Glancing at the Teton guide, I decided, hey, why don't we hike up Cube Point? Seems it has an enjoyable class 4 scrambling route (not to mention a 3-pitch 5.4 east ridge route that's popular). I brought along a 120-foot rope and DB's harness, in case I didn't feel comfortable with her soloing the class 4 stuff.
Well, we couldn't help ourselves. That airy and exposed, narrow east ridge looked so fantastic that we got on it and enjoyed the crap out of ourselves. I didn't have a harness or any pro, but it was a reasonable solo and I was able to anchor off horns to bring DB up second. Classic!
Mount Moran - CMC Route (II, 5.5)
Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
When: July 2009
Partners: Andy Mac
I'd wanted to climb Mount Moran since climbing Grand Teton in 2006. In 2007, my friend Walt and I got permits for the peak's most classic route, the CMC Route. A climbing ranger told me that the CMC Route was the classic route in the Tetons. It's not hard to imagine how stoked I was. Unfortunately, Walt's truck broke down in Idaho and we scrapped Moran for another time. This go-round, Andy Mac was a willing (and enthusiastic) participant.
Renting a canoe, we paddled across String Lake, portaged to Leigh Lake, then paddled across to the bottom of the Falling Ice Glacier drainage. The beta said it was then a 4-6 hour hike to camp. We did it in less than 2 with overnight packs. Camp was delightful, and I didn't at all mind choking down my bland, heat-in-the-bag type mashed potatoes for dinner that night.
The beta also said that summit day was a 10-14 hour roundtrip from camp. We did it in less than 6 (including an episode with a tangled rope on the rappel from Drizzelpuss, and a snagged rope on the descent from the CMC face). Free-soloing the ascent of the very sweet and solid, 1000-foot 5.4 CMC face was a cruise. What a route!
The crux of the route, interestingly enough, is a 5.5 pitch on the return, when one must reclimb Drizzlepuss, an aesthetic crag near the base of the CMC face. Once back on top of Drizzlepuss, it was 30 minutes back to camp, then another hour to the canoe (after packing up camp).
It seems most parties do this route in 2 or 3 days. For the fit and capable, this is a reasonable 10-12 hour dayhike from the car.
Taylor Mountain (10,352 Feet)
Where: Teton Range, Wyoming
When: July 2008
Partners: DB
Route: Taylor Mountain Trail from Coal Creek (Class 2)
Mileage/Gain: 10/3,100
From a camp just across the highway, one morning DB and I set out for a hike up Taylor Mountain. Overgrown at times, the trail was stunningly beautiful, with lush vegetation, wildflowers, a creek crossing or two and fresh black bear prints in the dirt.
Eventually leaving the trees, the trail took on more of an alpine feel and the views opened up considerably.
Crossing up and over a false summit, we followed the class 2 talus and snow ridge southwest to the pristine (well, except for the thrashed Tibetan prayer flags I found on the ground) summit.
Enjoying some rest and relaxation on the summit, as any wilderness traveler eventually must, we began our descent.
*Oh, by the way, the highpoint of Taylor Mountain is the 'Victor' benchmark; not the lesser (and easier) point a half-mile to the northeast, which certain guidebooks claim is the summit.
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Random Wildlife Sightings Abound in Grand Teton National Park
Where: Grand Teton National Park
When: July 2008
In July 2008, DB and I spent a week in Grand Teton National Park. While there, we had the pleasure of not only climbing a couple spectacular mountains but also seeing some wildlife...!
Unfortunately, this year's sightings paled in comparison to last year's Teton wildlife = Three bull moose, about four elk, six mule deer, and a close-up encounter with a mama grizzly and her cub.
Disappointment Peak (11,618 Feet)
Where: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
When: July 2008
Partners: DB
Route: Lake Ledges (Class 4 & Steep Snow)
Mileage/Gain: 12/5,100
Heading off one morning from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead, just as me, Mike Cressman and Rick Kent had done two years earlier on our climb of Grand Teton, DB and I had high anticipation of an "interesting" day in the still-heavily-snowed high country of Grand Teton National Park.
Eventually leaving the Garnet Canyon Trail and heading up the Amphitheater Lake Trail, we began to hit snow...and then more snow. Passing Surprise Lake under full snow, we arrived at Amphitheater Lake and got our first view of our objective.
Hmmm, lots of snow but doable. We angled left around the lake and headed up the snow.
Soon reaching the Lake Ledges, we found that the heavy snow still buried any apparent trivial way to gain them. Instead, we pulled off a few funky moves and gradually traversed our way up and right in search of easier ground.
Near the top of the ledges, we encountered a 100-foot 60-degree snow slope that we could bail left off of about halfway up and eventually gain easier ground. Negotiating through the difficulties, we put away the rope and continued on.
Eventually leaving the snow, we climbed onto surprisingly enjoyable rock (class 3) that led us to the tiny and hugely exposed summit! An awesome finish!
Once there, it was immediately apparently why the first ascent party had dubbed the peak "Disappointment". Afterall, Grand Teton was right next door and towered more than 2,000 vertical feet above.
And so with a quick bite and some water, we headed down...fully satisfied with our day in the Teton backcountry.
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Mount Glory & Some Canoeing on String Lake
Where: Teton Range, Wyoming
When: September 2007
The night before Walt Hutton and I would meet up for a 2-day climb of the classic CMC route on Mount Moran, he called me and said that his truck had broken down in Idaho. He was going to sleep on the side of the road and then haul the truck to an auto shop first thing in the morning.
Calling me the next morning, Walt said that his alternator had blown and that he wouldn't get to the park until noon. Mount Moran would have to wait for another trip. We made plans to meet at the pass at the base of Mount Glory.
After breakfast, I headed up to the pass for a quick hike up Mount Glory. Following the good, steep trail past wildflowers and expanding views, the summit was tranquil. I returned shortly before Walt's noon arrival.
Walt had rented us a canoe for the paddle to the base of Moran. Since there was no longer time for the mountain, we collected the canoe anyway and paddled around String Lake for a bit. Good times. We talked of something short to do the next day, as I was to be heading for home the next evening.
Encounter with a Grizzly on Buck Mountain
When: September 2007
Partners: Just me, mama grizzly and her cub
Route: (Ascent) East Ridge - Class 3 / (Descent) East Face - Class 2-3
Mileage/Gain: 12/5,200
My buddy Walt Hutton and I made plans to join forces in Grand Teton National Park for a climb of the classic CMC route on Mount Moran. Arriving in the park a couple days before Walt was scheduled to show up, I spent my time playing tourist and exploring a bit of the backcountry.
Starting out for Buck Mountain one morning after securing permits for our climb of Mount Moran the following couple of days, I jogged most of the way up the beautiful trail to the base of the mountain, where the trail disappears into slabs and scree. From there, I hopped on the east ridge and glided up to the summit. The views, as one might imagine, were terrific.
Always a fan of loops, I decided to descend the east face. Shortly after dropping below the summit, I ran into the first humans of the day - two men having a bit of difficulty finding the easiest route up through the occasional troubles the face was giving them. I pointed out what I felt to be the optimal route for them to follow.
Bidding the boys farewell, I continued down. Soon reaching the trail that would lead me back to my vehicle, I began to jog. Eventually coming out of the forest and into an open meadowy area of thigh-high bushes, I was moving at a quick pace when, thirty feet in front of me, a female grizzly bear sticks her head up, just barely showing above the level of the brush. I slammed on the brakes and waited to see what would happen. Do I walk backward? Do I throw rocks? Should I do absolutely nothing?!?
As I'm contemplating these things, the bear started to wander off the trail. And just then I notice her cub! Tiny, adorable, fuzzy - with a potentially volatile, and highly protective, mother. I went with option #3 - Do nothing.
And just like that, the cub stands up on her hind legs to grab berries above her head. Mama follows suit. And I mosey on my way...watching my back the whole way back to the vehicle!
And just under 6 hours car-to-car - not too shabby for a guy who almost got his throat chewed open!
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Ice Point & Storm Point
After our plans to climb the CMC route on Mount Moran had been thwarted by car trouble, Walt Hutton and I started up the trail from Jenny Lake early one morning. We were headed to Symmetry Couloir, the route that would take us to our objectives, Ice Point and Storm Point.
Along the way, we were fortunate enough to run across about half a dozen deer, a bunch of elk, and even two moose before we even got to the mountain. 
Making great time up the wildflower-choked couloir, it turned out that the climbs that day were absolutely terrific. Short and easy, but with impossibly good views of Mount Owen, Grand Teton and Teewinot. The climbing was exposed and the route-finding enjoyable...and it was all over too quickly, way before we knew it.
Returning to our vehicles a few hours later, seeing two more moose on the way out, Walt and I enjoyed lunch and then parted ways. It was time to drive to Salt Lake City to meet DB, and then head on to the Ruby Mountains to play around a bit before finally, and grudgingly, heading home!
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*Bottom photo courtesy of Walt Hutton
Grand Teton (aka The Tetons Big Dog)
Since my first trip to the Tetons in August 2001, I'd thought of climbing Grand Teton. When in summer 2006 Rick Kent and Mike Cressman told me they'd be interested in tackling her, that was all I needed.
Setting out over a long weekend, Mike and I drove up to meet Rick, who'd flown in from Bakersfield. Already scoring our permits via the reservation system, we set out the next morning and hiked up to our camp at the Lower Saddle. A beautiful approach on a good trail (with one short steep section, aided by a long rope dangling) brought us in short order to our camp. I think we were the only unguided group there.
Having traveled lightly, with me opting for a simple bivy that night, I felt good and strong and enthusiastic about the climb. Rick was tired, as he'd carried a heavy pack and was moving slowly, and Mike was ill with the flu.
Starting before dawn the next morning, we had a few minor difficulties finding our way to the start of Wall Street, the starting point for the Upper Exum Ridge. With me leading this first pitch, Rick and I swapped leads on the rather easy but amazingly enjoyable route. 
In what seemed like no time at all, we found ourselves on the crowded summit of the Grand. There were fine views from the top of this classic, alpine summit.
Before the big crowds found their way to the top, we decided to begin our descent. Easily hiking down toward the top of the Owen-Spalding route, we did a couple of nice rappels down to the Upper Saddle, then hiked the use trail down to our camp.
Breaking camp, we hiked out under beautiful weather. Eventually arriving back in Jackson, Rick and I enjoyed a hearty dinner while Mike (whom I can't believe actually did the climb while feverish) napped for hours in his hotel room. The next morning, it was time to head home and back to work.
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*Photos courtesy of Rick Kent
