Mount Shuksan, North Cascades

Where: North Cascades, Washington
When: May 2005
Partners: Eiji Sugi & Rick Kent
Route: Sulphide Glacier

Mount Shuksan

In May 2005, Eiji, Rick and I headed up to the North Cascades to attempt Mount Shuksan. Despite yet another poor Cascades weather forecast, we headed up the trail, got on snow as walked the mellow ridge leading up toward the glacier, and ultimately set a camp near the toe of the Sulphide.

Making dinner as heavy winds and rain moved in, Rick's stove was blown over and his tent caught on fire. Fortunately, we were able to get it out before any real damage was done.
Eiji on the approach

Waking early the next morning, Rick told us he'd not slept well, for concern of avalanches. Still, we donned our gear, roped up, and started up the mountain in near-zero visibility. Doing so without incident, that is, until Eiji popped through a crevasse waist-deep. Hauling himself back out, we continued up.
CP near the toe of the Sulphide Glacier

As we neared the dark rock of the summit pyramid, Rick and I were cold, wet and miserable. The temperatures were just warm enough to keep the rain from turning to snow. Although Eiji wanted to continue on, conditions would have dictated us pitching out the summit climb. Too time-consuming in such uncomfortable conditions for our tastes at the time.
Beautiful conditions for the march toward the summit

In defeat, we turned around and hiked out.

*Photos courtesy of Rick Kent