Where: Sierra Nevada
Who: DB
When: June 2010
For our very first outing of the 2010 summer roadtrip, DB and I decided to bag Cirque Peak, the last (southernmost) high peak of the Sierra, via a more direct route. It turned out to be a very pleasant outing.
Cirque Peak, Last of the High Sierra
Wonoga Peak
Where: Eastern Sierra (near Lone Pine, CA)
When: September 2009
Partners: DB
On a motivation-less Sunday, DB and I opted for the short hike up Wonoga Peak. Doing an enjoyable loop of the mountain, we were suitably impressed with the massive summit views down to Owens Valley.
A Day at Alabama Hills
Where: Alabama Hills, Sierra Nevada, California
When: October 2006
Partners: Rick Kent
Routes: Nut 'N' Honey (5.7), The Burnt Penis (5.7) & The Shark's Fin Arete (5.7)
The day after Rick and I completed a brutal 15+-hour dayhike involving more than 10,000 feet of elevation gain over largely cross-country terrain, we opted for something light to occupy us. Alabama Hills seemed the perfect fit!
Although I'd driven by Alabama Hills X-number of times before, I'd never actually stopped to climb something. I'm glad I finally did! The climbing is fine, and the setting sublime.
Of the three short climbs we did that leisurely day, The Shark's Fin Arete was certainly the best. Shark's Fin, though a cool name for a climbing feature, was naturally trumped by another nearby feature called The Burnt Penis.
Borrowed photos courtesy of Rick Kent
Mount Whitney (14,497 feet), Solo Dayhike via Mountaineers' Route
Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: August 2004
Partners: Solo
Route: Mountaineers Route (Class 3)
Mileage/Gain: 16/6,200
Topo: Here
I started out one September morning in 2004 for a dayhike of Mount Whitney's Mountaineers' Route with Whitney Warnick and John from Vegas. Enjoying good conversation up to just below Iceberg Lake, my partners began to slow considerably. Suggesting that perhaps their progress would grind to a near-halt, I asked if they'd be upset if I continued on at my own pace while they followed at theirs. Sure thing, they said. And off I went!
Cruising up the MR, I hung a left at the first chute above the notch and negotiated steep, icy and sketchy terrain to the flattish plateau leading up to the summit hut.
Staying only a few minutes, as thick clouds moved in and it began to snow, I raced down the trail back toward the car...bagging Mount Muir along the way!
Photos courtesy of Rick Kent
Mount Russell (14,088 feet)
Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: September 2004
Partners: Joe Dawson
Route East Ridge (Class 3)
Mileage/Gain 9/5,900
In late September 2004, Joe Dawson, Larry Reyes and I started out from Whitney Portal for the Right Fork of Lone Pine Creek. Joe and I intended to hike up Mount Russell's east ridge, while Larry, who's deathly afraid of heights and would have been in for a big surprise, elected to hang back and enjoy the lakes found in the drainage.
Leaving Larry at Lower Boyscout Lake, Joe and I started up the steep and sandy slope toward the Mount Russell-Mount Carillon col. Soon enough, we were on the flattish, sand plateau below the saddle. There, we had great views over to Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 49 states.
Hiking up Mount Carillon from the col, we got our first good look at what lay ahead. It was an astonishingly exposed traverse of Mount Russell's east ridge. What a sight! And we also got to look down on the perpetually frozen (or half-frozen) Tulainyo Lake in the basin to the north.
Dropping from Carillon and getting onto Russell's east ridge, we found it to be a delight. Largely class 2, it had the occasional class 3 move that added to the joy of climbing it. Passing over the slightly lower east summit, it wasn't long before we stood on the higher, west summit of this glorious peak.
Although the ascent went rather well, the sinus infection I'd been nursing caught up to me as I zoomed down the sandy slope leading to Lower Boyscout Lake on the return. Getting to the lake, I was certain I was going to puke. Larry, who'd patiently waited for us at the lake, collected me as we bid farewell to Joe and walked out at our own (well, my) slow pace.
TOPO
Photos courtesy of Rick Kent
Mount Langley (14,026 feet)
Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: October 2004
Partners: Larry Reyes
Route: Old Army Pass (Class 2-3)
Mileage/Gain: 22/4,000
In October 2004, Larry Reyes and I set out from a car camp at the Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead for a dayhike of Mount Langley. Widely regarded as the 2nd easiest of the California 14ers to "climb," we anticipated an easy and enjoyable day.
Eventually passing by lake #4 and moving on up to Army Pass, Larry announced that he'd had enough for the day. Perhaps the altitude was making him uncomfortable, or perhaps it was the clouds moving in and thickening.
Leaving Larry at the pass, I set out alone, angling right as I neared the upper mountain, in an attempt to beef up the otherwise simple route. Doing so, I enjoyed a short bit of class 3-4 scrambling. Above that, the summit...just as the clouds rolled in and obscured any views I might have had.
Returning to Larry, we hiked out leisurely, taking plenty of time to enjoy the lakes and general mood of the landscape.
TOPO
Photos courtesy of Rick Kent
Mount Muir (14,015 feet)
Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: August 2004
Partners: Solo
Enjoying a solo dayhike of Mount Whitney via the Mountaineers' Route in August 2004, I thought it appropriate to drop by Mount Muir on my way down the trail.
With some fun scrambling leading up to the exposed summit, it was all over too fast. Time to head down and out!
TOPO
Photos courtesy of Rick Kent
Thor Peak's Stemwinder (5.4)
Where: Sierra Nevada, California
When: July 2006
Partners: Rick Kent
Route: Stemwinder (5.4)
Mileage/Gain 7/4,000
Stemwinder is an easy 5th class route on the impossible-looking south face of Thor Peak, in the Sierra Nevada above Whitney Portal. At a glance, you just don't believe that an "easy" route can possible work its way up this face...but it does! And it's a fine route!
After a short initial hike up the Mount Whitney Trail, one leaves the trail near Bighorn Park and bee-lines it for the start of the route at the base of the face. A short, awkward chimney move leads one to the crux of the route, a steep chimney with a hard first move that suggests greater difficulty than the route's purported 5.4 rating.
Above this pitch, a flurry of class 3-4 scrambling presented itself, including a semi-memorable, steep 4th class pitch up a chimney with poor rock.
While climbing this stunning, wonderful, thrillingly easy yet stimulating route, we couldn't help and look over at the rest of the face we were on and marvel at the improbability of it all...a big face!
Finally, a final, steep slab pitch presented itself. Not really technical, the exposure on this frictional pitch was enough to make you watch you step. We again pulled out the rope, Rick offered to lead, and we pushed through it in fine style.
At the end of the technical difficulties, I coiled and put away the rope.
Hiking and scrambling the rest of the way to the top, the smallness of the world once again made itself plain. Rick and I happened to bump into a nice young man named Mike Schasch just below the summit. Mike was hiking up from the easier chute route above Whitney Portal. Mike and Rick, as chance had it, had also bumped into each other on a Sierra peak only two weeks earlier. Small world!
TOPO
Photos courtesy of Rick Kent
