Midway (Washington's First Multi-Pitch Trad Route)

Midway is a 3-pitch (can be done in 2 pitches) 5.6 trad route on the steep southwest face of Castle Rock, a granitic monolith towering above the Wenatchee River outside of Leavenworth, Washington. The route was first climbed by Fred Beckey, Wesley Grande and Jack Schwabland in 1948. Since, it has become a classic.

Starting with a short 5.6 flaring chimney, one climbs to the top of Jello Tower. Belaying from the top of the tower, the next pitch starts with an exposed step-across move that leads one right to the base of a steep chimney. Climbing through the chimney, one can either continue up the face or use the adjacent crack system to reach the summit.

From the summit, a bit of scrambling, followed by a use-trail, takes one quickly back to the bottom of the feature.

A great route, and one I'd love to repeat! Thanks to Kevin for introducing me to it.